Publications

VITRO-SKIN® Publications

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2002, 24, 1-8
Development of an in vitro efficiency test for self-tanning formulations
R. Jerrmann, M. Toumiat and D. Imfeld
Pentapharm Ltd, Engelgasse 109, CH-4002 Basel, Switzerland
Received 20 April 2001. Accepted 26 July 2001.
Keywords: erythrulose, dihydrosyacetone, in vitro efficacy test, self-tanning formulations, skin colour assessment, vitro skin

Synopsis
In the last few years, the desire to acquire a tan without sunbathing has grown. In response, many cosmetic companies have produced self-tanning preparations. However, to optimize these formulations, a suitable model to assess the colour induced on the skin remains to be developed. We have developed an in vitro method using a synthetic skin in order to study the efficacy of self-tanning formulations. The in vitro test was then used to study the influence of cosmetic ingredients upon the colour induced by erythrulose- or dihydroxyacetone-containing formulations. Finally, an in vivo study allowed us to relate the results obtained in vitro with those found on human skin. The results show that this in vitro test system is a reliable tool to predict the efficacy of self-tanning products.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE 20TH IFSCC CONGRESS
USE OF SYNTHETIC SKIN FOR IN-VITRO EVALUATION OF PHOTPROTECTIVE EFFICACY OF SUNSCREENS: APPLICATION TO DIFFERENT TYPE OF EMULSIONS
N.S. Tokgoz, G. Marginean-Lazar, A. Ponte, A.E. Fructus
Laboratoires Dermatologiques Lutsia, Boots Healthcare International, Paris, France 2Hermal, Boots Healthcare International, Hamburg, Germany 3Ecole Biolgie Industrielle, Paris, France

Several methods exist that evaluate sunscreens efficacy for ultraviolet radiations (FDA, DIN, COLIPA, Australian standards etc.) and it is generally accepted that the determination of sun protection faction (SPF) on humans is the most reliable one.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE 20TH IFSCC CONGRESS
SUNSCREEN O1/W/O2, MULTIPLE EMULSION WITH ORGANIC AND MINERAL UV ABSORBERS.
L. Ferrero, K. Golz, S. Bouttes, L. Zastrow

INTRODUCTION:
Numerous studies have revealed the interest of multiple emulsions for the cosmetic industry (1)-(4). These complex systems present several advantages compared to other systems: high entrapment capacity, possible protection of fragile substances encapsulated into the internal

PROCEEDINGS OF THE 20TH IFSCC CONGRESS
SPECTROSCOPY OF SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS: HOW TO EXPLAIN THE SPECIAL SHAPE OF UV CURVES OBTAINED FROM IN VITRO SPF TESTS.
Authors: L. Ferrero, A.M. Orcet, L. Zastrow

INTRODUCTION
Numerous attempts have been made to understand how sunscreen preparations protect against UV radiations (1)-(4). Normally, the final UV absorption of a sunscreen product should depend on absorption curves of each UV filters placed within the preparation. However, it is now trivial to remark the bad accordance between SPF(s) directly calculated from spectroscopic absorbances of pure UV filters (obtained from dilute solutions and measured in 1 cm quartz

PROCEEDINGS OF THE 20TH IFSCC CONGRESS
RHEOLOGICAL PROPERTIES AND FUNCTIONALITY OF SUNSCREEN FORMULATIONS
A. Semenzato, M. Poropat, M. Marcazzan, A. Bettero
Centro di Cosmetologia Chimica, Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche, Universita di Padova Via Marzolo 5, 35131 Padova, Italy

INTRODUCTION
The use of polymeric additives as raw materials 1, 2, 3, 4, which could increase the SPF value of sunscreens, has grown up much lately.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE 20TH IFSCC CONGRESS
COMPARISON OF UVA/UVB PROTECTION OF FOUNDATION FORMULATIONS BETWEEN SPHERICAL POLYMER MATRIX COMPOSITES VERSUS NANOFINE METAL OXIDES ARE EVALUATED IN TWO SPF IN VITRO METHODS.
Jaana Printz and Alain Saintrond*
Cosmetic Innovations and Technologies, 13 Rue des Livraindrieres, Dreux, France.
*Creations Couleurs, Research Laboratory, 6 rue Jules Pasdeloup, 28100 Dreux, France.

Key Words: Colour stability, Photostability, Spherical Polymer Matrix Composites, In vitro SPF